A surprisingly great fit for my first Made-to-Measure Suit from Oliver Wicks! It’s actually my first Custom suit of any kind and it did not disappoint!
*As a preface to this review, it should be noted that I was able to choose any suit that I wanted in exchange for an honest and comprehensive review and assessment of the brand and the Made-to-Measure suit. I was told to be honest and provide constructive criticism and any negative areas I found, so they could improve upon them and provide an even better experience for everyone. If you would like to purchase anything from Oliver Wicks, you can use the special code DAPPERLY in the coupon code area to save some money on your purchase!
This translates to:
$50 off blazers
$100 off Suits $699 and over
$150 off suits $799 and over
$200 off suits $899 and over
I met Mike Nunez at the final Menfluential this past February 28/29th in Atlanta, Georgia. I wasn’t super interested in hearing the many Influencers speak about their success or how to leverage all of that into ads and revenue. I was most excited to take the six-hour road trip with my brother and meet a handful of people I had spoken with online. It was nice to finally meet Jon Shanahan from The Kavalier, Ian from Fit Man Style, and a handful of other guys from various places, as well as a handful of companies. There were even a few gentlemen from my menswear Facebook group, ‘Dapperly Dressed in a Casual Age’. While I have nothing against a lot of the bigger channels and personalities, there was a bit too many rehearsed bits and promotions that put me off a little bit. While, there were a handful of great speakers and interesting and informative stories, I was most excited to get to know Mike and learn more about Oliver Wicks and their story. We ended up talking for almost an hour and he was very genuine and kind. He was very easy to talk with and have a meaningful and enjoyable conversation about personal life, and the menswear world we both are a part of! I knew from this meeting that this was going to be both a successful collaboration and a rewarding experience.
Oliver Wicks is a suiting brand that specializes in Made-to-Measure suiting while also making a handful of Ready-to-wear jackets, trousers, shoes, and other accessories. What intrigued me the most about Oliver Wicks was that they are very upfront with their fabrics and where they are sourced, where they make their garments, and their customer service is truly what sets them over the top! You are getting fabrics sourced from famous Italian and British mills including Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, Angelico, Alfred Brown, E. Thomas, and Bottoli and they are constructed in Europe. So, you are not only getting all-natural fabrics free from synthetic materials, but you are getting quality wools, mohair, linen, cotton, cashmere and blends of these, from reputable mills with a heritage and quality to them! They are half canvas construction by default, so you don’t have to worry about cheap fused construction, and for an additional $110 you can even upgrade to a full canvas construction! A lot of companies either don’t offer this upgrade or charge quite a bit more to do so.
Next, let’s go ahead and discuss the process of measurements and choosing your fabric and style details! So, when you first go on https://www.oliverwicks.com/ you will find an easy to navigate menu of options and specific articles of clothing to look through. For me, it was a suit as I had recently sold off the small handful of suits I had in my wardrobe as both my preferences on a bit more full cut over the ultra-slim and fashion forward cuts don’t work with my large body type. I was able to make it a three-piece suit for maximum versatility which was great for a first suit in my overhauled wardrobe. While I have been slowly building up my wardrobe of Sportscoats, blazers, and odd trousers the suit had been neglected due to the extra work on tailoring RTW garments and having to fine tune the jacket, trousers, and waistcoat. So, having an Made-to-Measure three-piece in a beautiful Navy Birdseye Wool from Vitale Barberis Canonico was an amazing starting point! While navy and charcoal are almost always suggested as first suits, I chose navy as I personally just prefer how it works on me and I love earthy colors like dark greens, browns, burnt oranges and other colors that mix exceptionally with a good navy suit!
So, I knew I wanted a good all-season three-piece navy suit. I selected the appropriate cloth (A Vendetta 150s Wool in a Navy Birdseye weave from Vitale Barberis Canonico) for a classic and formal suit that would work in all but White/Black Tie. It can also be dressed down by simply leaving the waistcoat off and changing the shirt and tie or dropping the tie entirely. Next up was to choose the different options for your suit starting with the jacket. You choose your lapel size (max is 3.75-inches, but you can get them up to 4.25 inches if requested!), the rear vent(s), and the style of the jacket. So, you have everything from a one-button, two-button, three-button, to a three-roll-two or even a double-breasted jacket. Next, is the pocket style you want and if you want straight or slanted, ticket pocket or patch pockets. You can add a personalized monogram to the inside of your jacket and choose the jacket lining before going to the “More Options” tab where you can select from a handful of additional options. These include many options such as pick-stitching, functional boutonniere, having jacket half lined instead of fully lined, contrast buttonholes, upgrade to full canvass construction and if you want unpadded shoulders. This is also the area where you can choose if you want your pants to have cuffs, suspender buttons, pleats, side tabs, and a few other things. What I would love to stress though is that you can leave a detailed note when ordering or email Oliver Wicks customer service to inquire about additional options not listed or give further input. Some things that I requested were able to be accounted for, or attempted, and some critiques I had could have been alleviated if I had inquired about them. This is one area; I wish Oliver Wicks would simply add as options on their website. For example, I requested a 4.75-inch notch lapel and was told they could accommodate up to 4.25 inches (although it turned out to be 4 inches). One other thing I wish I had asked about was the buttons as they are a cellulose based material but they told me they could easily make them horn upon request, although I’ll just swap out for some I have at my tailor. With that said, if you are super picky like me then just ask or reach out to them with what you want, and they will do their best to accomplish it. They encourage you to email them at Custom@OliverWicks.com for any inquires or questions.
Now onto the fit. I’m 6’3 and 215 pounds and a nice fit on me is somewhere between slim and classic. I like a jacket to be comfortable and not pulling when buttoned but not so big that it dwarfs me. When it comes to pants, I tend to like a much higher rise than most men and I like them to sit at my natural waist with side adjusters and internal buttons for braces/suspenders. I still like them to fit well and compliment my overall proportions which means around a 17-inch leg opening as I have large thighs and decent sized legs overall and wear a size 11.5D Shoe. I’ve tried everything from a super trendy 14.5-inch leg opening to giant 19-inch leg openings and somewhere around the 16.5-17-inch leg opening works best to balance my larger shoes and overall body proportions. What is awesome about the website is that it gives you a very-short and to-the-point clip on exactly how and where to measure yourself or to measure a well-fitting garment you have in order to nail that measurement down. I did my measurements exactly how the website suggested by measuring both myself when asked to do so, and measurements on jackets and trousers that fit well on me. So, this meant finding and knowing my fit preferences and what I had that fit well and where it didn’t and choosing the appropriate measurements based on each area and it was very easy and enlightening to do yourself and evaluate what fits you well and where. You then combine all this and hope for a great fit from Oliver Wicks! The one measurement I wasn’t asked was the rise of the trousers, and for me It is essential to have a high rise, so I inquired about that. I was told that they could take those measurements of my preference and add that into the rest of the measurements. So, having made custom trousers before, I was able to submit my preferences for a front and rear rise. If there are any measurements that seem off or are outside fixed parameters, they confirm those via their system, and will check in to verify if necessary. All that is left now is to wait to receive your suit in the mail!
I ordered on March 30th with both my measurements and my final details submitted and confirmed. The suit was made up and shipped out on April 16th and arrived at my door on April 20th! A three-week turnaround for a Made-to-Measure suit is quite amazing and I was surprised at the speed in which it arrived! Upon trying the suit on, I was pleasantly surprised at how well the fit was and how everything came together on my first attempt at a custom suit! Of course, it wasn’t 100% perfect, as there will always be minor tweaks and adjustments needed and I was assuming a handful would need to be dialed in a touch. Honestly, I was quite happy with the fit and the only minor things I would change would be lowering the buttoning point about a half inch for proportions and to give the lapels a little more presence. I would also add about ¾ of an inch to the hip measurement to reduce the pocket flair, although I was told there is that much allowance in this pair to let out which works perfectly! The only other fit issue was a slight fold to the fabric on my right shoulder that either needs a quick press or a slight tweak to the rear center collar area to alleviate. My tailor will address when reopen. So, even though I’m nit-picking, there was never issue an issue with making or tweaking all these issues except the larger lapels. I would love if they could go wider still, as with my stature and broad shoulders, I can easily pull off a 4.75-inch notch lapel or even larger on a Double-breasted jacket.
My details were as follows:
Vitale Barberis Canonico Navy Birdseye in a Vendetta 150s wool cloth (9 ounces/270 GSM) Three-piece Suit
4-inch Notch Lapels
3-roll-2 buttoning (requested for it to be functional)
Straight pockets with ticket pocket
Lapel Vest with 4-buttons
Dotted Light Blue Bemberg Lining by Brunello ($25 additional)
More Options: I selected Pick-Stitching, functional boutonniere, Half-lined jacket, Full Canvas construction ($110 additional), Unpadded Shoulders, and brown mélange buttons.
For the trousers: Single rear pocket, No cuffs or pleats, suspender buttons inside, side adjusters instead of belt loops.
Price was $933 for a full Three-piece MTM Suit made with Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 150s Cloth, Full Canvas Construction and beautiful Bemberg Lining with Monogram, $125 in tailoring credits (good for up to a year after purchase) and a guarantee they will remake suit if not fully satisfied!
Transparent company that takes great pride in their work
Excellent fabric mills from Italy and England
A decent selection of options to choose from without being overwhelmed
The ability to add additional notes and email to inquire about other options
Fast and friendly customer service (Some of the best I’ve worked with)
Free shipping and returns to most countries
A $50 tailoring credit for RTW garments and $125 on suits, that is good up to a year from order
Will remake suit if it can’t be altered
FULL MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED
Room for improvement:
Adding a couple additional options such as button materials, larger lapels, unlined, etc.
Using a less tight basting stitch in the pockets, so it’s easier to undo without damage.
Horn Buttons would be nice default or upgrade option
A final check for loose threads
If you have any further questions on the process, what I did (in even more minute detail), or anything else please reach out to me via comment, DM, or any of my social media accounts! Thanks for reading!